Prostatic Hypertrophy or, in simple terms, enlarged prostate glands is a condition caused by the male or female hormones in the dog's body and even though it is not as painful for the dog as prostatitis it is still something which should be looked into with care as it may be a cause for concern. Read on through this article to find out more about this condition.
The symptoms for dog Prostatic Hypertrophy include the following:
1. The dog may walk differently. Look out for an arched back and stiff legs and the dog taking shorter strides.
2. The dog may have difficulty urinating
3. The dog may not have any fever and unlike prostatitis it will have normal temperature.
A dog's prostate glands swelling up without a reason is what causes Prostatitis hypertrophy. The swelling is due to sex hormones which affect the prostate glands.
Two different types of sex hormones are responsible for the swelling and disturbance. The first is testosterone. Testosterone is a male sex hormone which is produced within the testicles. When this hormone over stimulates the prostate gland and causes it to swell it can cause a lot of pain and discomfort.
The second is oestrogen, a female hormone which is also found in male dogs but in very small amounts. Too much of this will cause the prostate to swell and the structure of the prostate gland cells will possibly change as well through a process called squamous metaplasia.
If the cause of this condition is traced back to a female hormone then this may be as a result of a sertoli cell tumour and thus should be checked appropriately.
Initally, the vet may look for possible symptoms such as arched back and stuff back legs in order to make sure that the dog has this condition. This will be followed by the vet taking the temperature of the dog in order to make sure that it has no fever. A normal temperature will rule out prostatitis and thus leave us with Prostatic Hypertrophy.
The vet may want to feel for the swollen prostate gland through the anus using his fingers in order to make sure that the dog feels no pain in the area and rule out prostatitis even further.
If your dog is showing signs of too much male testosterone the vet may suggest using injections to lower this and to bring it down to the appropriate level. If this fails then the only option left is to get the dog castrated which will remove the area where the hormone is produced.
Castration is also the solution if the problem results from the female hormone. This will help remove the tumor in the affected testicle. There are cases here the hormone causing the problem may be hard to find and thus further tests such as blood tests, ultrasound and even biopsy may be needed to confirm.
2008年8月24日星期日
2008年8月19日星期二
Scouting For The Ultimate Dog Couches
Have you had a sudden blood pressure rise upon seeing your plush couch teeming with your pooch's refuse and urine? Or, ever remember that day when you saw your favorite sofa torn beyond belief, undeniably the work of your active pooch?
You see, your dog can at times become such a rascal, and the sad thing is that you can hardly make your pooch behave, especially if it is a naturally playful canine. But, there's definitely something that you can do to avert a possible heart attack over the sight of your dog having a grand time nibbling on your expensive designer sofa. How about giving your pet a sofa or couch of its own?
It is a reality that there are so many dog couches that you can choose from in the market these days. To make the task of choosing which dog sofa or couch to buy, take a quick read at the following tips:
1. Durability
This is of particular concern if you own a big canine. Pick a couch that can effectively support your dog's sheer size. Of course, you cannot expect your pooch to avoid biting the edges of its couch. This being the case, make sure that from the start you inspect the materials used in the couch. They should be of superior and finer variety that will stand the test of time.
In its strictest sense, the materials of the couch should possess optimum durability aside from effectively repelling stains and dirt. Thus, pick the ones made of ultra-fine polyester microfibers. These are unquestionably finer than silk, making the couch significantly soft with the fabric's pliant nature that is guaranteed to possess unusual strength. This type of fabric is a combination of durability and comfort. Also, keep an eye on orthopedic dog couches that are perfect for pet owners who have senior or physically-challenged dogs.
2. Versatility
A fine couch should complement every house setting. Dog couches with changeable covers do the trick. Just choose the type of cover that complements the setting and presto!, you already get an instant makeover, which is arguably pleasing to the eye. In addition, the couch should support every imaginable dog weight or size, to help save money on buying a replacement.
3. Easy Cleaning and Fuss-free Maintenance
A dog couch should allow for hassle-free cleaning. Since it forms a part of the design of your humble abode, see to it that you can wash it at regular intervals without exerting too much effort. See if it has removable covers. This will help you remove them for cleaning. Moreover, a dog couch with antibacterial and anti-odor properties as well as a stain resistant feature is a definite plus as you are assured that your dog's couch will be free of bacteria, stains, and nasty odors.
Indeed, it will be very laborious on your part if you wish to arrive at the right dog couch. However, it will be worth the hassle if you and your dog can now have a more peaceful slumber.
You see, your dog can at times become such a rascal, and the sad thing is that you can hardly make your pooch behave, especially if it is a naturally playful canine. But, there's definitely something that you can do to avert a possible heart attack over the sight of your dog having a grand time nibbling on your expensive designer sofa. How about giving your pet a sofa or couch of its own?
It is a reality that there are so many dog couches that you can choose from in the market these days. To make the task of choosing which dog sofa or couch to buy, take a quick read at the following tips:
1. Durability
This is of particular concern if you own a big canine. Pick a couch that can effectively support your dog's sheer size. Of course, you cannot expect your pooch to avoid biting the edges of its couch. This being the case, make sure that from the start you inspect the materials used in the couch. They should be of superior and finer variety that will stand the test of time.
In its strictest sense, the materials of the couch should possess optimum durability aside from effectively repelling stains and dirt. Thus, pick the ones made of ultra-fine polyester microfibers. These are unquestionably finer than silk, making the couch significantly soft with the fabric's pliant nature that is guaranteed to possess unusual strength. This type of fabric is a combination of durability and comfort. Also, keep an eye on orthopedic dog couches that are perfect for pet owners who have senior or physically-challenged dogs.
2. Versatility
A fine couch should complement every house setting. Dog couches with changeable covers do the trick. Just choose the type of cover that complements the setting and presto!, you already get an instant makeover, which is arguably pleasing to the eye. In addition, the couch should support every imaginable dog weight or size, to help save money on buying a replacement.
3. Easy Cleaning and Fuss-free Maintenance
A dog couch should allow for hassle-free cleaning. Since it forms a part of the design of your humble abode, see to it that you can wash it at regular intervals without exerting too much effort. See if it has removable covers. This will help you remove them for cleaning. Moreover, a dog couch with antibacterial and anti-odor properties as well as a stain resistant feature is a definite plus as you are assured that your dog's couch will be free of bacteria, stains, and nasty odors.
Indeed, it will be very laborious on your part if you wish to arrive at the right dog couch. However, it will be worth the hassle if you and your dog can now have a more peaceful slumber.
2008年8月12日星期二
Dog Training With A Training Collar Or Choke Collar
There are a variety of names that go under the broad heading of “training collar”. Some of them are --- choke collar, choke chain, training collar, correction collar and slip collar. These are all training collars and are used by professionals and amateur trainers alike.
Training collars are effective tools if they are used properly. Here are a few thoughts to apply when using training collars:
Does it fit? A properly fitted collar makes the collar easier to use and a lot safer for the dog. Determining if the training collar is the right size is relatively easy. The ideal size training collar should fit snugly, yet comfortably over the dog’s head. It is important that the training collar not fit too tightly, but it should not be too loose either. A training collar that is too tight will be too hard to put on and off. On the other hand, a training collar that is too loose can accidentally fall off of the dog’s head when it lowers its head. The collar should also not be too long.
It is best to measure the dog’s neck with a tape measure, then add 2 to 3 inches to that measurement. So if your dog has a neck 12” in diameter, you would want to buy a training collar that is 14” in length. Chain slip collars are generally sized in two inch increments.
* Has it been put on correctly? Put it on right and it will be more effective and less dangerous.
* Is it being used correctly? Don’t use the collar as punishment. Rather, use it only as a sharp reminder to the dog about their behavior. Use short sharp jerks of the collar, not constant pressure. Using constant pressure could be dangerous to the dog.
* Is it the right weight for your dog? In addition to the weight, the size of the links should also be appropriate for your dog’s size and weight.
* Is the collar placed correctly? It is important to properly place the collar on the dog. When fitting a training collar, the part of the chain which is connected to the leash should be on the top of the dog’s neck. With this type of arrangement, the collar releases the instant the leash is loosened. Training collars work by making the collar tight and loose in a fast manner. Tightening the collar is the first part of the correction, and making it loose is the second part of the correction.
If the part of the training collar that is attached to the leash is not on the top of the dog’s neck, the collar can still be made tight, but it will not release back to a loose state easily. This constant pressure on the dog’s neck initiates a counter response on the part of the animal, and the dog will quickly learn to pull and strain against the leash.
Make sure you purchase a collar that is both well made and strong. This is a vital step to the safety of yourself and your dog.
What do you do if the collar breaks? First, don’t panic! For the fist couple of minutes your dog won’t even know they have an unexpected freedom. If you continue to pretend that the collar is still attached, you can usually get control of the dog back.
If your collar should break, you can usually make a quick replacement by making a “slip lead”. Just take the snap of the leash and run it through the handle and then slip the loop you formed over the dog’s head. Not perfect, but sure solves the immediate problem.
Training collars are effective tools if they are used properly. Here are a few thoughts to apply when using training collars:
Does it fit? A properly fitted collar makes the collar easier to use and a lot safer for the dog. Determining if the training collar is the right size is relatively easy. The ideal size training collar should fit snugly, yet comfortably over the dog’s head. It is important that the training collar not fit too tightly, but it should not be too loose either. A training collar that is too tight will be too hard to put on and off. On the other hand, a training collar that is too loose can accidentally fall off of the dog’s head when it lowers its head. The collar should also not be too long.
It is best to measure the dog’s neck with a tape measure, then add 2 to 3 inches to that measurement. So if your dog has a neck 12” in diameter, you would want to buy a training collar that is 14” in length. Chain slip collars are generally sized in two inch increments.
* Has it been put on correctly? Put it on right and it will be more effective and less dangerous.
* Is it being used correctly? Don’t use the collar as punishment. Rather, use it only as a sharp reminder to the dog about their behavior. Use short sharp jerks of the collar, not constant pressure. Using constant pressure could be dangerous to the dog.
* Is it the right weight for your dog? In addition to the weight, the size of the links should also be appropriate for your dog’s size and weight.
* Is the collar placed correctly? It is important to properly place the collar on the dog. When fitting a training collar, the part of the chain which is connected to the leash should be on the top of the dog’s neck. With this type of arrangement, the collar releases the instant the leash is loosened. Training collars work by making the collar tight and loose in a fast manner. Tightening the collar is the first part of the correction, and making it loose is the second part of the correction.
If the part of the training collar that is attached to the leash is not on the top of the dog’s neck, the collar can still be made tight, but it will not release back to a loose state easily. This constant pressure on the dog’s neck initiates a counter response on the part of the animal, and the dog will quickly learn to pull and strain against the leash.
Make sure you purchase a collar that is both well made and strong. This is a vital step to the safety of yourself and your dog.
What do you do if the collar breaks? First, don’t panic! For the fist couple of minutes your dog won’t even know they have an unexpected freedom. If you continue to pretend that the collar is still attached, you can usually get control of the dog back.
If your collar should break, you can usually make a quick replacement by making a “slip lead”. Just take the snap of the leash and run it through the handle and then slip the loop you formed over the dog’s head. Not perfect, but sure solves the immediate problem.
2008年8月11日星期一
Post Hibernation Anorexia (PHA) in Tortoises
Post hibernation anorexia (PHA) is a very common problem in pet tortoises at this time of the year, and can be frustrating to treat. Prevention is much preferable to treatment, and with the correct husbandry, dietary practices and hibernation preparation, this is easily achievable.
Sadly, post hibernation problems recur each year. Many pet tortoises are still kept by owners who are ignorant of their requirements regarding heat and UVb light provision, and the fact that many tortoises can cope with poor husbandry for relatively long periods before showing clinical signs can mask the problem.
What is post hibernation anorexia (PHA)?
PHA is when a tortoise fails to eat in the days and weeks following waking from hibernation. It is not a disease in itself, merely a descriptive term that reflects underlying disease(s).
Why does PHA happen?
The main reasons for PHA occurring are:
1. The tortoise was not fit enough to hibernate in the first place.
2. The hibernation was inadequately set up or poorly monitored.
3. The hibernation lasted too long.
A veterinarian treating a case of PHA must first play detective to find out the previous husbandry practices, diet and health problems of the tortoise, and ascertain the precise hibernation set up the owner was using.
Tortoises are particularly vulnerable during the post hibernation period. When they wake they are usually very weak and have a low white blood cell count, meaning they are susceptible to infection. They also have a high urea level, due to the accumulation of metabolic toxins. This is exacerbated if the tortoise is dehydrated or has had a very long hibernation period. The combination of a high white blood cell count and a high urea level means that if anything else goes wrong, there is very little time available to diagnose and treat the problem.
The problem is made worse in countries with an unnatural climate, such as the UK. In the wild, most tortoises have a long summer to prepare them for a short winter, and therefore a short hibernation period. In countries like the UK, tortoises have a short summer to prepare for a long hibernation period. It is very important therefore to artificially control the duration of hibernation, or else the tortoise may be fatally weakened and unable to recover organ function properly.
The recommended maximum length for a hibernation is 3 months for a healthy adult tortoise, so most of them will need waking toward the end of January, and kept inside a warm enclosure until the summer.
The owner responsibilities
When a tortoise wakes from hibernation, the owner should carefully check for clinical signs such as sunken eyes (suggests dehydration) or wounds to the limbs (usually due to bites from rodents when tortoises have been hibernated outside). If any problems are suspected, veterinary help should be sought immediately.
If all seems well, tortoises should be bathed daily in shallow warm water and housed in an indoor enclosure, kept at 22 to 25 degrees centigrade, with both a basking lamp and a UVb light provided.
A healthy tortoise should start to eat and urinate within a week. If this does not occur, veterinary attention is required. The owner must closely monitor appetite, thirst, urination, defaecation and activity for at least three weeks post hibernation. If the tortoise fails to urinate within 6 weeks of waking, the prognosis is very poor sadly.
MAJOR CAUSES OF PHA
1. Excessive duration of hibernation period
Basically, those longer than 3 months. This occurs in tortoises left outside for the winter.
2. Low white blood cell count
This can sometimes have been present before hibernation. Stress and seasonal changes in reproductive hormones can play a role. The tortoise will be immunosuppressed on waking and if warmed too quickly, disease causing microorganisms will multiply and cause infections such as runny nose syndrome.
3. Disease or injury during hibernation
Rat bites and frost damage are two common injuries that occur during hibernation. Blindness can also occur, which is sometimes overlooked.
4. Poor post hibernation management
This includes failing to rehydrate the tortoise by bathing etc, not realizing the hibernation was over and inadequate food or heat provision.
5. Undetected long term diseases
Health problems have often developed over a very long period, with hibernation being the final straw which pushes the tortoise over the edge. Examples of diseases affecting tortoises are mycotic (fungal) infections, viral infections, kidney failure, egg retention, liver disease, disease of the digestive tract and eye problems.
Treating PHA can be very frustrating for the veterinarian. It is much preferable to do all you can to stop it from occurring in the first place. Good vets will suggest a pre hibernation consultation for the following season, where long term husbandry and care can be discussed.
Sadly, post hibernation problems recur each year. Many pet tortoises are still kept by owners who are ignorant of their requirements regarding heat and UVb light provision, and the fact that many tortoises can cope with poor husbandry for relatively long periods before showing clinical signs can mask the problem.
What is post hibernation anorexia (PHA)?
PHA is when a tortoise fails to eat in the days and weeks following waking from hibernation. It is not a disease in itself, merely a descriptive term that reflects underlying disease(s).
Why does PHA happen?
The main reasons for PHA occurring are:
1. The tortoise was not fit enough to hibernate in the first place.
2. The hibernation was inadequately set up or poorly monitored.
3. The hibernation lasted too long.
A veterinarian treating a case of PHA must first play detective to find out the previous husbandry practices, diet and health problems of the tortoise, and ascertain the precise hibernation set up the owner was using.
Tortoises are particularly vulnerable during the post hibernation period. When they wake they are usually very weak and have a low white blood cell count, meaning they are susceptible to infection. They also have a high urea level, due to the accumulation of metabolic toxins. This is exacerbated if the tortoise is dehydrated or has had a very long hibernation period. The combination of a high white blood cell count and a high urea level means that if anything else goes wrong, there is very little time available to diagnose and treat the problem.
The problem is made worse in countries with an unnatural climate, such as the UK. In the wild, most tortoises have a long summer to prepare them for a short winter, and therefore a short hibernation period. In countries like the UK, tortoises have a short summer to prepare for a long hibernation period. It is very important therefore to artificially control the duration of hibernation, or else the tortoise may be fatally weakened and unable to recover organ function properly.
The recommended maximum length for a hibernation is 3 months for a healthy adult tortoise, so most of them will need waking toward the end of January, and kept inside a warm enclosure until the summer.
The owner responsibilities
When a tortoise wakes from hibernation, the owner should carefully check for clinical signs such as sunken eyes (suggests dehydration) or wounds to the limbs (usually due to bites from rodents when tortoises have been hibernated outside). If any problems are suspected, veterinary help should be sought immediately.
If all seems well, tortoises should be bathed daily in shallow warm water and housed in an indoor enclosure, kept at 22 to 25 degrees centigrade, with both a basking lamp and a UVb light provided.
A healthy tortoise should start to eat and urinate within a week. If this does not occur, veterinary attention is required. The owner must closely monitor appetite, thirst, urination, defaecation and activity for at least three weeks post hibernation. If the tortoise fails to urinate within 6 weeks of waking, the prognosis is very poor sadly.
MAJOR CAUSES OF PHA
1. Excessive duration of hibernation period
Basically, those longer than 3 months. This occurs in tortoises left outside for the winter.
2. Low white blood cell count
This can sometimes have been present before hibernation. Stress and seasonal changes in reproductive hormones can play a role. The tortoise will be immunosuppressed on waking and if warmed too quickly, disease causing microorganisms will multiply and cause infections such as runny nose syndrome.
3. Disease or injury during hibernation
Rat bites and frost damage are two common injuries that occur during hibernation. Blindness can also occur, which is sometimes overlooked.
4. Poor post hibernation management
This includes failing to rehydrate the tortoise by bathing etc, not realizing the hibernation was over and inadequate food or heat provision.
5. Undetected long term diseases
Health problems have often developed over a very long period, with hibernation being the final straw which pushes the tortoise over the edge. Examples of diseases affecting tortoises are mycotic (fungal) infections, viral infections, kidney failure, egg retention, liver disease, disease of the digestive tract and eye problems.
Treating PHA can be very frustrating for the veterinarian. It is much preferable to do all you can to stop it from occurring in the first place. Good vets will suggest a pre hibernation consultation for the following season, where long term husbandry and care can be discussed.
2008年8月7日星期四
Dog Training Books
My husband and I decided to surprise our son with a new puppy for his 10th birthday a few weeks ago. He had been asking for a pet for the longest time, but we didn't feel that he was ready to handle the responsibility until now. One condition we placed on adopting the puppy was that my son would be completely responsible for the dog's care. He would have to take his puppy for walks, play with it, feed it, make sure it had access to fresh water, and train it. To help my son carry out his responsibility, we also bought a couple of dog training books for him to read.
After careful consideration, we decided that dog training books would be a better option than obedience classes for a few different reasons. For instance, we wanted our son to develop a strong bond with his new pet and figured that using dog training books instead of obedience classes would allow him to spend more time with the puppy. In addition, our son would get a bigger sense of accomplishment from teaching his puppy basic commands through techniques learned in dog training books. He would be doing everything on his own and could take full credit for the way the animal turned out. And finally, we thought it would be handy to have dog training books around the house for a quick reference should any behavioral problems come up.
There were so many dog training books at the local bookstore that it was pretty overwhelming trying to sort through all the choices. I didn't really know anything about dogs, so had no idea which trainers or methods were successful and which weren't. Before making a purchase, it was imperative for me to find out more about how to train dogs in general. So I went online to do as much research as possible in the time I had before my son's birthday. Once I had some good information to work with, I felt comfortable enough to choose several dog training books that were appropriate both for my son's age and for the dog's breed. I also decided to buy a couple of the trainer's aids recommended in the manuals, including a special leash and collar.
As I said before, it's been a few weeks since we brought the puppy home. I'm proud to say that my son has been holding up his end of the bargain admirably and is really making progress thanks to the tips and advice in the dog training books. We're sure that he'll continue to do exceptionally well in teaching his pet basic commands and more, and we're looking forward to watching this new friendship blossom!
After careful consideration, we decided that dog training books would be a better option than obedience classes for a few different reasons. For instance, we wanted our son to develop a strong bond with his new pet and figured that using dog training books instead of obedience classes would allow him to spend more time with the puppy. In addition, our son would get a bigger sense of accomplishment from teaching his puppy basic commands through techniques learned in dog training books. He would be doing everything on his own and could take full credit for the way the animal turned out. And finally, we thought it would be handy to have dog training books around the house for a quick reference should any behavioral problems come up.
There were so many dog training books at the local bookstore that it was pretty overwhelming trying to sort through all the choices. I didn't really know anything about dogs, so had no idea which trainers or methods were successful and which weren't. Before making a purchase, it was imperative for me to find out more about how to train dogs in general. So I went online to do as much research as possible in the time I had before my son's birthday. Once I had some good information to work with, I felt comfortable enough to choose several dog training books that were appropriate both for my son's age and for the dog's breed. I also decided to buy a couple of the trainer's aids recommended in the manuals, including a special leash and collar.
As I said before, it's been a few weeks since we brought the puppy home. I'm proud to say that my son has been holding up his end of the bargain admirably and is really making progress thanks to the tips and advice in the dog training books. We're sure that he'll continue to do exceptionally well in teaching his pet basic commands and more, and we're looking forward to watching this new friendship blossom!
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