The bird (kind of Aves) is two full animals, endothermic (warm-blooded), gets down the egg vertebrate.
Some about 10,000 survival types, make they most different quadruped the vertebrate. they live stretch across Earth’s ecosystem, from the North Pole to the South Pole state. Bird from 5 cm (2) bee hummingbird in size scope to 2.7 m (9 ft) ostrich. The fossil record indicated in the Jurassic Period period, the bird evolved from the theropoda dinosaur, about 150-200 Ma (1,000,000 years ago), and early time’s known bird is the late Jurassic Period archacopteryx, c 155-150 Ma. The most paleontologists thought that the bird survives the Cretaceous Period tertiary becoming extinct event about 65.5 Ma dinosaur’s only clade. What modern bird description is the feather, the beak does not have the tooth, the laying aside to have the hard shell egg, the high metabolism rate, four have the room heart and the lightweight, but strong skeleton. All birds have the achievement wing the foreleg which revises and can most fly, have some exceptions including the ratite, the penguin and the certain amount different local island type. The bird also has the unique digestion which and the respiratory system adapts for the flight altitude. Some birds, specially corvids and the parrot, are in the most intelligent animal type; Certain amount’s bird type is the manufacturing industry which and the use tool observes, and many social type exhibition knowledge culture transmission spread-eagle generation. Many types undertake long-distance every year to migrate, and many carry on a shorter anomalous movement. The bird is the society; They communicate the use visual signal and through the telephone and the song, and participates in the social behaviour to raise including the cooperation and to hunt, gathers and besieges the predator. The overwhelming majority bird type is in the society Shan Pei, usually a reproduction season each time, sometimes for many years, but very little lives.
other types have are the plural marriage reproduction system (“many females”) or, are very few, polygamy (” many males “). Egg in nest usual, and hatches by the parents. The most birds have parents’ care extension deadline after the hatching. Many types are the economy are important, the main achievement or farms the gain food origin through the hunting.
some types, the special singer and the parrot, are the universal achievement pets. Other uses (excrement) are the use take the fertilizer including the harvest guano. The bird calculates prominently in human culture’s all aspects from the religion to the poetry to the pop music. About 120-130 types at that time before became becomes extinct as a result of the human activity from the 17th century and over a hundred. At present probably bird’s 1,200 type threat with becomes extinct by the human activity, although the endeavor is carries on protects them.
for:http://www.birds-house.com
2008年9月17日星期三
2008年9月5日星期五
Bandaging Your Dog
Having a dog is a big responsibility. Some even compare taking care of a dog to that of a baby. The only advantage having dogs compared to having babies is that they won’t grow older and turn into stressful teenagers. Because dogs are like babies they sometimes also end up in harmful situations. They would sometimes get themselves trapped in a tight place or get hit by something that will injure one of their limbs. When that happens, we should learn how to bandage our dogs to prevent further damage. Here are some basic ways of how to bandage your injured dog.
1. When your pet has a bandage, it should always be clean and dry. So it’s pretty important to make sure your pet stays inside most of the time when it has a bandage. To prevent the bandage from getting wet when the pet goes to pee or poop, a trash bag or plastic covering should cover the bandaged leg. You may use empty bread bags. When your pet has wet or dirtied up the bandage, it would require changing. Make sure to check the bandage twice a day to see if it is clean and dry. Check also for foul odors or discharge and if there is any, call your veterinarian immediately.
2. After bringing home your pet from the veterinarian make sure that the bandage is still in place. Your pet might have been irritated by it and has chewed or tried to scratch it off. Look closely at the position and the location of the bandage when you do check. Look at the toes of the pet, the bandage might have slipped up making the toes stick out. Also look at the size, if the bandage has become loose. This should be taken into account when a dog has been bandaged in the abdomen or leg area. This is because one end will be bigger than the other and eventually become narrower. When the bandage telescopes down the limb of the dog it may bunch up and abrade the limb. When that happens, the bandage should be changed as well.
3. If the dog is bandaged up in the leg make sure it isn’t too tight. Observe how the toes will appear at the bottom of the bandage at least twice a day. This is done to check for sweating, swelling, or pain. Check for skin chaffing, redness, discharge or swelling before and after the bandage has been applied.
4. To prevent the pet from chewing the bandage because of the bothersome experience it gives, put an Elizabethan collar. If you have observed that the pet is chewing or scratching it excessively, ask the vet if there might be problems.
These are the times that you should already be taking the pet back to the veterinarian:
• Swelling above or below the bandage
• Chewing the bandage
• Bandage becomes wet
• Bleeding or discharge above, below or through
• Scheduled bandage changes
1. When your pet has a bandage, it should always be clean and dry. So it’s pretty important to make sure your pet stays inside most of the time when it has a bandage. To prevent the bandage from getting wet when the pet goes to pee or poop, a trash bag or plastic covering should cover the bandaged leg. You may use empty bread bags. When your pet has wet or dirtied up the bandage, it would require changing. Make sure to check the bandage twice a day to see if it is clean and dry. Check also for foul odors or discharge and if there is any, call your veterinarian immediately.
2. After bringing home your pet from the veterinarian make sure that the bandage is still in place. Your pet might have been irritated by it and has chewed or tried to scratch it off. Look closely at the position and the location of the bandage when you do check. Look at the toes of the pet, the bandage might have slipped up making the toes stick out. Also look at the size, if the bandage has become loose. This should be taken into account when a dog has been bandaged in the abdomen or leg area. This is because one end will be bigger than the other and eventually become narrower. When the bandage telescopes down the limb of the dog it may bunch up and abrade the limb. When that happens, the bandage should be changed as well.
3. If the dog is bandaged up in the leg make sure it isn’t too tight. Observe how the toes will appear at the bottom of the bandage at least twice a day. This is done to check for sweating, swelling, or pain. Check for skin chaffing, redness, discharge or swelling before and after the bandage has been applied.
4. To prevent the pet from chewing the bandage because of the bothersome experience it gives, put an Elizabethan collar. If you have observed that the pet is chewing or scratching it excessively, ask the vet if there might be problems.
These are the times that you should already be taking the pet back to the veterinarian:
• Swelling above or below the bandage
• Chewing the bandage
• Bandage becomes wet
• Bleeding or discharge above, below or through
• Scheduled bandage changes
2008年9月1日星期一
Do’s and Don’ts Of Teaching Your Puppy Proper Socialization Skills
Teaching a puppy or a dog proper socialization skills is vital to the safety of both your dog and other dogs and people with whom he comes into contact. A properly socialized dog is a happy dog, and a joy to be around for both humans and animals. A poorly socialized dog, or one with no socialization at all, is a danger to other animals, other people and even his own family.
Socialization is best done when the puppy is as young as possible The socialization lessons a young puppy learns are difficult to undo, and it is important to remember that the socialization skills the puppy learns will affect his behavior for the rest of his life.
A dog that is properly socialized will be neither frightened of nor aggressive towards either animals or humans. A properly socialized dog will take each new experience and stimulus in stride, and not become fearful or aggressive. Dogs that are not properly socialized often bite because of fear, and such a dog can become a hazard and a liability to the family who owns it. Improperly socialized dogs are also unable to adapt to new situations. A routine matter like a trip to the vets or to a friends house can quickly stress the dog out and lead to all sorts of problems.
Socialization is best done when the puppy is very young, perhaps around 12 weeks of age. Even after 12 weeks, however, it is important that the puppy continues its socialization in order to refine the all important social skills. It is possible to socialize an older puppy, but it is very difficult to achieve after the all important 12 week period has passed.
There are so definite do’s and don’t when it comes to properly socializing any puppy. Let’s start with what to do. Later in this article we will explore what to avoid.
Socialization Do’s
• Make each of the socialization events as pleasant and non-threatening for the puppy as possible. If a puppy’s first experience with any new experience is an unpleasant one, it will be very difficult to undo that in the puppy’s mind. In some cases, an early trauma can morph into a phobia that can last for a lifetime. It is better to take things slow and avoid having the puppy become frightened or injured.
• Try inviting your friends over to meet the new puppy. It is important to included as many different people as possible in the puppy’s circle of acquaintances, including men, women, children, adults, as well as people of many diverse ethnic backgrounds and ages.
• Also invite friendly and healthy dogs and puppies over to meet your puppy. It is important for the puppy to meet a wide variety of other animals, including cats, hamsters, rabbits and other animals he is likely to meet. It is of course important to make sure that all animals the puppy comes into contact with have received all necessary vaccinations.
• Take the puppy to many different places, including shopping centers, pet stores, parks, school playgrounds and on walks around the neighborhood. Try to expose the puppy to places where they will be crowds of people and lots of diverse activity going on.
• Take the puppy for frequent short rides in the car. During these rides, be sure to stop the car once in a while and let the puppy look out the window at the world outside.
• Introduce your puppy to a variety of items that may be unfamiliar. The puppy should be exposed to common items like bags, boxes, vacuum cleaners, umbrellas, hats, etc. that may be frightening to him. Allow and encourage the puppy to explore these items and see that he has nothing to fear from them.
• Get the puppy used to a variety of objects by rearranging familiar ones. Simply placing a chair upside down, or placing a table on its side, creates an object that your puppy will perceive as totally new.
• Get the puppy used to common procedures like being brushed, bathed, having the nails clipped, teeth cleaned, ears cleaned, etc. Your groomer and your veterinarian with thank you for this.
• Introduce the puppy to common things around the house, such as stairs. Also introduce the puppy to the collar and leash, so he will be comfortable with these items.
Socialization Don'ts
There are of course some things to avoid when socializing a puppy. These socialization don’ts include:
• Do not place the puppy on the ground when strange animals are present. An attack, or even a surprise inspection, by an unknown animal could traumatize the puppy and hurt his socialization.
• Do not inadvertently reward fear based behavior. When the puppy shows fear, it is normal to try to sooth it, but this could reinforce the fear based behavior and make it worse. Since biting is often a fear based behavior, reinforcing fear can create problems with biting.
Socialization is best done when the puppy is as young as possible The socialization lessons a young puppy learns are difficult to undo, and it is important to remember that the socialization skills the puppy learns will affect his behavior for the rest of his life.
A dog that is properly socialized will be neither frightened of nor aggressive towards either animals or humans. A properly socialized dog will take each new experience and stimulus in stride, and not become fearful or aggressive. Dogs that are not properly socialized often bite because of fear, and such a dog can become a hazard and a liability to the family who owns it. Improperly socialized dogs are also unable to adapt to new situations. A routine matter like a trip to the vets or to a friends house can quickly stress the dog out and lead to all sorts of problems.
Socialization is best done when the puppy is very young, perhaps around 12 weeks of age. Even after 12 weeks, however, it is important that the puppy continues its socialization in order to refine the all important social skills. It is possible to socialize an older puppy, but it is very difficult to achieve after the all important 12 week period has passed.
There are so definite do’s and don’t when it comes to properly socializing any puppy. Let’s start with what to do. Later in this article we will explore what to avoid.
Socialization Do’s
• Make each of the socialization events as pleasant and non-threatening for the puppy as possible. If a puppy’s first experience with any new experience is an unpleasant one, it will be very difficult to undo that in the puppy’s mind. In some cases, an early trauma can morph into a phobia that can last for a lifetime. It is better to take things slow and avoid having the puppy become frightened or injured.
• Try inviting your friends over to meet the new puppy. It is important to included as many different people as possible in the puppy’s circle of acquaintances, including men, women, children, adults, as well as people of many diverse ethnic backgrounds and ages.
• Also invite friendly and healthy dogs and puppies over to meet your puppy. It is important for the puppy to meet a wide variety of other animals, including cats, hamsters, rabbits and other animals he is likely to meet. It is of course important to make sure that all animals the puppy comes into contact with have received all necessary vaccinations.
• Take the puppy to many different places, including shopping centers, pet stores, parks, school playgrounds and on walks around the neighborhood. Try to expose the puppy to places where they will be crowds of people and lots of diverse activity going on.
• Take the puppy for frequent short rides in the car. During these rides, be sure to stop the car once in a while and let the puppy look out the window at the world outside.
• Introduce your puppy to a variety of items that may be unfamiliar. The puppy should be exposed to common items like bags, boxes, vacuum cleaners, umbrellas, hats, etc. that may be frightening to him. Allow and encourage the puppy to explore these items and see that he has nothing to fear from them.
• Get the puppy used to a variety of objects by rearranging familiar ones. Simply placing a chair upside down, or placing a table on its side, creates an object that your puppy will perceive as totally new.
• Get the puppy used to common procedures like being brushed, bathed, having the nails clipped, teeth cleaned, ears cleaned, etc. Your groomer and your veterinarian with thank you for this.
• Introduce the puppy to common things around the house, such as stairs. Also introduce the puppy to the collar and leash, so he will be comfortable with these items.
Socialization Don'ts
There are of course some things to avoid when socializing a puppy. These socialization don’ts include:
• Do not place the puppy on the ground when strange animals are present. An attack, or even a surprise inspection, by an unknown animal could traumatize the puppy and hurt his socialization.
• Do not inadvertently reward fear based behavior. When the puppy shows fear, it is normal to try to sooth it, but this could reinforce the fear based behavior and make it worse. Since biting is often a fear based behavior, reinforcing fear can create problems with biting.
2008年8月24日星期日
Dog Enlarged Prostate Glands - Dog Health Best Tips
Prostatic Hypertrophy or, in simple terms, enlarged prostate glands is a condition caused by the male or female hormones in the dog's body and even though it is not as painful for the dog as prostatitis it is still something which should be looked into with care as it may be a cause for concern. Read on through this article to find out more about this condition.
The symptoms for dog Prostatic Hypertrophy include the following:
1. The dog may walk differently. Look out for an arched back and stiff legs and the dog taking shorter strides.
2. The dog may have difficulty urinating
3. The dog may not have any fever and unlike prostatitis it will have normal temperature.
A dog's prostate glands swelling up without a reason is what causes Prostatitis hypertrophy. The swelling is due to sex hormones which affect the prostate glands.
Two different types of sex hormones are responsible for the swelling and disturbance. The first is testosterone. Testosterone is a male sex hormone which is produced within the testicles. When this hormone over stimulates the prostate gland and causes it to swell it can cause a lot of pain and discomfort.
The second is oestrogen, a female hormone which is also found in male dogs but in very small amounts. Too much of this will cause the prostate to swell and the structure of the prostate gland cells will possibly change as well through a process called squamous metaplasia.
If the cause of this condition is traced back to a female hormone then this may be as a result of a sertoli cell tumour and thus should be checked appropriately.
Initally, the vet may look for possible symptoms such as arched back and stuff back legs in order to make sure that the dog has this condition. This will be followed by the vet taking the temperature of the dog in order to make sure that it has no fever. A normal temperature will rule out prostatitis and thus leave us with Prostatic Hypertrophy.
The vet may want to feel for the swollen prostate gland through the anus using his fingers in order to make sure that the dog feels no pain in the area and rule out prostatitis even further.
If your dog is showing signs of too much male testosterone the vet may suggest using injections to lower this and to bring it down to the appropriate level. If this fails then the only option left is to get the dog castrated which will remove the area where the hormone is produced.
Castration is also the solution if the problem results from the female hormone. This will help remove the tumor in the affected testicle. There are cases here the hormone causing the problem may be hard to find and thus further tests such as blood tests, ultrasound and even biopsy may be needed to confirm.
The symptoms for dog Prostatic Hypertrophy include the following:
1. The dog may walk differently. Look out for an arched back and stiff legs and the dog taking shorter strides.
2. The dog may have difficulty urinating
3. The dog may not have any fever and unlike prostatitis it will have normal temperature.
A dog's prostate glands swelling up without a reason is what causes Prostatitis hypertrophy. The swelling is due to sex hormones which affect the prostate glands.
Two different types of sex hormones are responsible for the swelling and disturbance. The first is testosterone. Testosterone is a male sex hormone which is produced within the testicles. When this hormone over stimulates the prostate gland and causes it to swell it can cause a lot of pain and discomfort.
The second is oestrogen, a female hormone which is also found in male dogs but in very small amounts. Too much of this will cause the prostate to swell and the structure of the prostate gland cells will possibly change as well through a process called squamous metaplasia.
If the cause of this condition is traced back to a female hormone then this may be as a result of a sertoli cell tumour and thus should be checked appropriately.
Initally, the vet may look for possible symptoms such as arched back and stuff back legs in order to make sure that the dog has this condition. This will be followed by the vet taking the temperature of the dog in order to make sure that it has no fever. A normal temperature will rule out prostatitis and thus leave us with Prostatic Hypertrophy.
The vet may want to feel for the swollen prostate gland through the anus using his fingers in order to make sure that the dog feels no pain in the area and rule out prostatitis even further.
If your dog is showing signs of too much male testosterone the vet may suggest using injections to lower this and to bring it down to the appropriate level. If this fails then the only option left is to get the dog castrated which will remove the area where the hormone is produced.
Castration is also the solution if the problem results from the female hormone. This will help remove the tumor in the affected testicle. There are cases here the hormone causing the problem may be hard to find and thus further tests such as blood tests, ultrasound and even biopsy may be needed to confirm.
2008年8月19日星期二
Scouting For The Ultimate Dog Couches
Have you had a sudden blood pressure rise upon seeing your plush couch teeming with your pooch's refuse and urine? Or, ever remember that day when you saw your favorite sofa torn beyond belief, undeniably the work of your active pooch?
You see, your dog can at times become such a rascal, and the sad thing is that you can hardly make your pooch behave, especially if it is a naturally playful canine. But, there's definitely something that you can do to avert a possible heart attack over the sight of your dog having a grand time nibbling on your expensive designer sofa. How about giving your pet a sofa or couch of its own?
It is a reality that there are so many dog couches that you can choose from in the market these days. To make the task of choosing which dog sofa or couch to buy, take a quick read at the following tips:
1. Durability
This is of particular concern if you own a big canine. Pick a couch that can effectively support your dog's sheer size. Of course, you cannot expect your pooch to avoid biting the edges of its couch. This being the case, make sure that from the start you inspect the materials used in the couch. They should be of superior and finer variety that will stand the test of time.
In its strictest sense, the materials of the couch should possess optimum durability aside from effectively repelling stains and dirt. Thus, pick the ones made of ultra-fine polyester microfibers. These are unquestionably finer than silk, making the couch significantly soft with the fabric's pliant nature that is guaranteed to possess unusual strength. This type of fabric is a combination of durability and comfort. Also, keep an eye on orthopedic dog couches that are perfect for pet owners who have senior or physically-challenged dogs.
2. Versatility
A fine couch should complement every house setting. Dog couches with changeable covers do the trick. Just choose the type of cover that complements the setting and presto!, you already get an instant makeover, which is arguably pleasing to the eye. In addition, the couch should support every imaginable dog weight or size, to help save money on buying a replacement.
3. Easy Cleaning and Fuss-free Maintenance
A dog couch should allow for hassle-free cleaning. Since it forms a part of the design of your humble abode, see to it that you can wash it at regular intervals without exerting too much effort. See if it has removable covers. This will help you remove them for cleaning. Moreover, a dog couch with antibacterial and anti-odor properties as well as a stain resistant feature is a definite plus as you are assured that your dog's couch will be free of bacteria, stains, and nasty odors.
Indeed, it will be very laborious on your part if you wish to arrive at the right dog couch. However, it will be worth the hassle if you and your dog can now have a more peaceful slumber.
You see, your dog can at times become such a rascal, and the sad thing is that you can hardly make your pooch behave, especially if it is a naturally playful canine. But, there's definitely something that you can do to avert a possible heart attack over the sight of your dog having a grand time nibbling on your expensive designer sofa. How about giving your pet a sofa or couch of its own?
It is a reality that there are so many dog couches that you can choose from in the market these days. To make the task of choosing which dog sofa or couch to buy, take a quick read at the following tips:
1. Durability
This is of particular concern if you own a big canine. Pick a couch that can effectively support your dog's sheer size. Of course, you cannot expect your pooch to avoid biting the edges of its couch. This being the case, make sure that from the start you inspect the materials used in the couch. They should be of superior and finer variety that will stand the test of time.
In its strictest sense, the materials of the couch should possess optimum durability aside from effectively repelling stains and dirt. Thus, pick the ones made of ultra-fine polyester microfibers. These are unquestionably finer than silk, making the couch significantly soft with the fabric's pliant nature that is guaranteed to possess unusual strength. This type of fabric is a combination of durability and comfort. Also, keep an eye on orthopedic dog couches that are perfect for pet owners who have senior or physically-challenged dogs.
2. Versatility
A fine couch should complement every house setting. Dog couches with changeable covers do the trick. Just choose the type of cover that complements the setting and presto!, you already get an instant makeover, which is arguably pleasing to the eye. In addition, the couch should support every imaginable dog weight or size, to help save money on buying a replacement.
3. Easy Cleaning and Fuss-free Maintenance
A dog couch should allow for hassle-free cleaning. Since it forms a part of the design of your humble abode, see to it that you can wash it at regular intervals without exerting too much effort. See if it has removable covers. This will help you remove them for cleaning. Moreover, a dog couch with antibacterial and anti-odor properties as well as a stain resistant feature is a definite plus as you are assured that your dog's couch will be free of bacteria, stains, and nasty odors.
Indeed, it will be very laborious on your part if you wish to arrive at the right dog couch. However, it will be worth the hassle if you and your dog can now have a more peaceful slumber.
2008年8月12日星期二
Dog Training With A Training Collar Or Choke Collar
There are a variety of names that go under the broad heading of “training collar”. Some of them are --- choke collar, choke chain, training collar, correction collar and slip collar. These are all training collars and are used by professionals and amateur trainers alike.
Training collars are effective tools if they are used properly. Here are a few thoughts to apply when using training collars:
Does it fit? A properly fitted collar makes the collar easier to use and a lot safer for the dog. Determining if the training collar is the right size is relatively easy. The ideal size training collar should fit snugly, yet comfortably over the dog’s head. It is important that the training collar not fit too tightly, but it should not be too loose either. A training collar that is too tight will be too hard to put on and off. On the other hand, a training collar that is too loose can accidentally fall off of the dog’s head when it lowers its head. The collar should also not be too long.
It is best to measure the dog’s neck with a tape measure, then add 2 to 3 inches to that measurement. So if your dog has a neck 12” in diameter, you would want to buy a training collar that is 14” in length. Chain slip collars are generally sized in two inch increments.
* Has it been put on correctly? Put it on right and it will be more effective and less dangerous.
* Is it being used correctly? Don’t use the collar as punishment. Rather, use it only as a sharp reminder to the dog about their behavior. Use short sharp jerks of the collar, not constant pressure. Using constant pressure could be dangerous to the dog.
* Is it the right weight for your dog? In addition to the weight, the size of the links should also be appropriate for your dog’s size and weight.
* Is the collar placed correctly? It is important to properly place the collar on the dog. When fitting a training collar, the part of the chain which is connected to the leash should be on the top of the dog’s neck. With this type of arrangement, the collar releases the instant the leash is loosened. Training collars work by making the collar tight and loose in a fast manner. Tightening the collar is the first part of the correction, and making it loose is the second part of the correction.
If the part of the training collar that is attached to the leash is not on the top of the dog’s neck, the collar can still be made tight, but it will not release back to a loose state easily. This constant pressure on the dog’s neck initiates a counter response on the part of the animal, and the dog will quickly learn to pull and strain against the leash.
Make sure you purchase a collar that is both well made and strong. This is a vital step to the safety of yourself and your dog.
What do you do if the collar breaks? First, don’t panic! For the fist couple of minutes your dog won’t even know they have an unexpected freedom. If you continue to pretend that the collar is still attached, you can usually get control of the dog back.
If your collar should break, you can usually make a quick replacement by making a “slip lead”. Just take the snap of the leash and run it through the handle and then slip the loop you formed over the dog’s head. Not perfect, but sure solves the immediate problem.
Training collars are effective tools if they are used properly. Here are a few thoughts to apply when using training collars:
Does it fit? A properly fitted collar makes the collar easier to use and a lot safer for the dog. Determining if the training collar is the right size is relatively easy. The ideal size training collar should fit snugly, yet comfortably over the dog’s head. It is important that the training collar not fit too tightly, but it should not be too loose either. A training collar that is too tight will be too hard to put on and off. On the other hand, a training collar that is too loose can accidentally fall off of the dog’s head when it lowers its head. The collar should also not be too long.
It is best to measure the dog’s neck with a tape measure, then add 2 to 3 inches to that measurement. So if your dog has a neck 12” in diameter, you would want to buy a training collar that is 14” in length. Chain slip collars are generally sized in two inch increments.
* Has it been put on correctly? Put it on right and it will be more effective and less dangerous.
* Is it being used correctly? Don’t use the collar as punishment. Rather, use it only as a sharp reminder to the dog about their behavior. Use short sharp jerks of the collar, not constant pressure. Using constant pressure could be dangerous to the dog.
* Is it the right weight for your dog? In addition to the weight, the size of the links should also be appropriate for your dog’s size and weight.
* Is the collar placed correctly? It is important to properly place the collar on the dog. When fitting a training collar, the part of the chain which is connected to the leash should be on the top of the dog’s neck. With this type of arrangement, the collar releases the instant the leash is loosened. Training collars work by making the collar tight and loose in a fast manner. Tightening the collar is the first part of the correction, and making it loose is the second part of the correction.
If the part of the training collar that is attached to the leash is not on the top of the dog’s neck, the collar can still be made tight, but it will not release back to a loose state easily. This constant pressure on the dog’s neck initiates a counter response on the part of the animal, and the dog will quickly learn to pull and strain against the leash.
Make sure you purchase a collar that is both well made and strong. This is a vital step to the safety of yourself and your dog.
What do you do if the collar breaks? First, don’t panic! For the fist couple of minutes your dog won’t even know they have an unexpected freedom. If you continue to pretend that the collar is still attached, you can usually get control of the dog back.
If your collar should break, you can usually make a quick replacement by making a “slip lead”. Just take the snap of the leash and run it through the handle and then slip the loop you formed over the dog’s head. Not perfect, but sure solves the immediate problem.
2008年8月11日星期一
Post Hibernation Anorexia (PHA) in Tortoises
Post hibernation anorexia (PHA) is a very common problem in pet tortoises at this time of the year, and can be frustrating to treat. Prevention is much preferable to treatment, and with the correct husbandry, dietary practices and hibernation preparation, this is easily achievable.
Sadly, post hibernation problems recur each year. Many pet tortoises are still kept by owners who are ignorant of their requirements regarding heat and UVb light provision, and the fact that many tortoises can cope with poor husbandry for relatively long periods before showing clinical signs can mask the problem.
What is post hibernation anorexia (PHA)?
PHA is when a tortoise fails to eat in the days and weeks following waking from hibernation. It is not a disease in itself, merely a descriptive term that reflects underlying disease(s).
Why does PHA happen?
The main reasons for PHA occurring are:
1. The tortoise was not fit enough to hibernate in the first place.
2. The hibernation was inadequately set up or poorly monitored.
3. The hibernation lasted too long.
A veterinarian treating a case of PHA must first play detective to find out the previous husbandry practices, diet and health problems of the tortoise, and ascertain the precise hibernation set up the owner was using.
Tortoises are particularly vulnerable during the post hibernation period. When they wake they are usually very weak and have a low white blood cell count, meaning they are susceptible to infection. They also have a high urea level, due to the accumulation of metabolic toxins. This is exacerbated if the tortoise is dehydrated or has had a very long hibernation period. The combination of a high white blood cell count and a high urea level means that if anything else goes wrong, there is very little time available to diagnose and treat the problem.
The problem is made worse in countries with an unnatural climate, such as the UK. In the wild, most tortoises have a long summer to prepare them for a short winter, and therefore a short hibernation period. In countries like the UK, tortoises have a short summer to prepare for a long hibernation period. It is very important therefore to artificially control the duration of hibernation, or else the tortoise may be fatally weakened and unable to recover organ function properly.
The recommended maximum length for a hibernation is 3 months for a healthy adult tortoise, so most of them will need waking toward the end of January, and kept inside a warm enclosure until the summer.
The owner responsibilities
When a tortoise wakes from hibernation, the owner should carefully check for clinical signs such as sunken eyes (suggests dehydration) or wounds to the limbs (usually due to bites from rodents when tortoises have been hibernated outside). If any problems are suspected, veterinary help should be sought immediately.
If all seems well, tortoises should be bathed daily in shallow warm water and housed in an indoor enclosure, kept at 22 to 25 degrees centigrade, with both a basking lamp and a UVb light provided.
A healthy tortoise should start to eat and urinate within a week. If this does not occur, veterinary attention is required. The owner must closely monitor appetite, thirst, urination, defaecation and activity for at least three weeks post hibernation. If the tortoise fails to urinate within 6 weeks of waking, the prognosis is very poor sadly.
MAJOR CAUSES OF PHA
1. Excessive duration of hibernation period
Basically, those longer than 3 months. This occurs in tortoises left outside for the winter.
2. Low white blood cell count
This can sometimes have been present before hibernation. Stress and seasonal changes in reproductive hormones can play a role. The tortoise will be immunosuppressed on waking and if warmed too quickly, disease causing microorganisms will multiply and cause infections such as runny nose syndrome.
3. Disease or injury during hibernation
Rat bites and frost damage are two common injuries that occur during hibernation. Blindness can also occur, which is sometimes overlooked.
4. Poor post hibernation management
This includes failing to rehydrate the tortoise by bathing etc, not realizing the hibernation was over and inadequate food or heat provision.
5. Undetected long term diseases
Health problems have often developed over a very long period, with hibernation being the final straw which pushes the tortoise over the edge. Examples of diseases affecting tortoises are mycotic (fungal) infections, viral infections, kidney failure, egg retention, liver disease, disease of the digestive tract and eye problems.
Treating PHA can be very frustrating for the veterinarian. It is much preferable to do all you can to stop it from occurring in the first place. Good vets will suggest a pre hibernation consultation for the following season, where long term husbandry and care can be discussed.
Sadly, post hibernation problems recur each year. Many pet tortoises are still kept by owners who are ignorant of their requirements regarding heat and UVb light provision, and the fact that many tortoises can cope with poor husbandry for relatively long periods before showing clinical signs can mask the problem.
What is post hibernation anorexia (PHA)?
PHA is when a tortoise fails to eat in the days and weeks following waking from hibernation. It is not a disease in itself, merely a descriptive term that reflects underlying disease(s).
Why does PHA happen?
The main reasons for PHA occurring are:
1. The tortoise was not fit enough to hibernate in the first place.
2. The hibernation was inadequately set up or poorly monitored.
3. The hibernation lasted too long.
A veterinarian treating a case of PHA must first play detective to find out the previous husbandry practices, diet and health problems of the tortoise, and ascertain the precise hibernation set up the owner was using.
Tortoises are particularly vulnerable during the post hibernation period. When they wake they are usually very weak and have a low white blood cell count, meaning they are susceptible to infection. They also have a high urea level, due to the accumulation of metabolic toxins. This is exacerbated if the tortoise is dehydrated or has had a very long hibernation period. The combination of a high white blood cell count and a high urea level means that if anything else goes wrong, there is very little time available to diagnose and treat the problem.
The problem is made worse in countries with an unnatural climate, such as the UK. In the wild, most tortoises have a long summer to prepare them for a short winter, and therefore a short hibernation period. In countries like the UK, tortoises have a short summer to prepare for a long hibernation period. It is very important therefore to artificially control the duration of hibernation, or else the tortoise may be fatally weakened and unable to recover organ function properly.
The recommended maximum length for a hibernation is 3 months for a healthy adult tortoise, so most of them will need waking toward the end of January, and kept inside a warm enclosure until the summer.
The owner responsibilities
When a tortoise wakes from hibernation, the owner should carefully check for clinical signs such as sunken eyes (suggests dehydration) or wounds to the limbs (usually due to bites from rodents when tortoises have been hibernated outside). If any problems are suspected, veterinary help should be sought immediately.
If all seems well, tortoises should be bathed daily in shallow warm water and housed in an indoor enclosure, kept at 22 to 25 degrees centigrade, with both a basking lamp and a UVb light provided.
A healthy tortoise should start to eat and urinate within a week. If this does not occur, veterinary attention is required. The owner must closely monitor appetite, thirst, urination, defaecation and activity for at least three weeks post hibernation. If the tortoise fails to urinate within 6 weeks of waking, the prognosis is very poor sadly.
MAJOR CAUSES OF PHA
1. Excessive duration of hibernation period
Basically, those longer than 3 months. This occurs in tortoises left outside for the winter.
2. Low white blood cell count
This can sometimes have been present before hibernation. Stress and seasonal changes in reproductive hormones can play a role. The tortoise will be immunosuppressed on waking and if warmed too quickly, disease causing microorganisms will multiply and cause infections such as runny nose syndrome.
3. Disease or injury during hibernation
Rat bites and frost damage are two common injuries that occur during hibernation. Blindness can also occur, which is sometimes overlooked.
4. Poor post hibernation management
This includes failing to rehydrate the tortoise by bathing etc, not realizing the hibernation was over and inadequate food or heat provision.
5. Undetected long term diseases
Health problems have often developed over a very long period, with hibernation being the final straw which pushes the tortoise over the edge. Examples of diseases affecting tortoises are mycotic (fungal) infections, viral infections, kidney failure, egg retention, liver disease, disease of the digestive tract and eye problems.
Treating PHA can be very frustrating for the veterinarian. It is much preferable to do all you can to stop it from occurring in the first place. Good vets will suggest a pre hibernation consultation for the following season, where long term husbandry and care can be discussed.
2008年8月7日星期四
Dog Training Books
My husband and I decided to surprise our son with a new puppy for his 10th birthday a few weeks ago. He had been asking for a pet for the longest time, but we didn't feel that he was ready to handle the responsibility until now. One condition we placed on adopting the puppy was that my son would be completely responsible for the dog's care. He would have to take his puppy for walks, play with it, feed it, make sure it had access to fresh water, and train it. To help my son carry out his responsibility, we also bought a couple of dog training books for him to read.
After careful consideration, we decided that dog training books would be a better option than obedience classes for a few different reasons. For instance, we wanted our son to develop a strong bond with his new pet and figured that using dog training books instead of obedience classes would allow him to spend more time with the puppy. In addition, our son would get a bigger sense of accomplishment from teaching his puppy basic commands through techniques learned in dog training books. He would be doing everything on his own and could take full credit for the way the animal turned out. And finally, we thought it would be handy to have dog training books around the house for a quick reference should any behavioral problems come up.
There were so many dog training books at the local bookstore that it was pretty overwhelming trying to sort through all the choices. I didn't really know anything about dogs, so had no idea which trainers or methods were successful and which weren't. Before making a purchase, it was imperative for me to find out more about how to train dogs in general. So I went online to do as much research as possible in the time I had before my son's birthday. Once I had some good information to work with, I felt comfortable enough to choose several dog training books that were appropriate both for my son's age and for the dog's breed. I also decided to buy a couple of the trainer's aids recommended in the manuals, including a special leash and collar.
As I said before, it's been a few weeks since we brought the puppy home. I'm proud to say that my son has been holding up his end of the bargain admirably and is really making progress thanks to the tips and advice in the dog training books. We're sure that he'll continue to do exceptionally well in teaching his pet basic commands and more, and we're looking forward to watching this new friendship blossom!
After careful consideration, we decided that dog training books would be a better option than obedience classes for a few different reasons. For instance, we wanted our son to develop a strong bond with his new pet and figured that using dog training books instead of obedience classes would allow him to spend more time with the puppy. In addition, our son would get a bigger sense of accomplishment from teaching his puppy basic commands through techniques learned in dog training books. He would be doing everything on his own and could take full credit for the way the animal turned out. And finally, we thought it would be handy to have dog training books around the house for a quick reference should any behavioral problems come up.
There were so many dog training books at the local bookstore that it was pretty overwhelming trying to sort through all the choices. I didn't really know anything about dogs, so had no idea which trainers or methods were successful and which weren't. Before making a purchase, it was imperative for me to find out more about how to train dogs in general. So I went online to do as much research as possible in the time I had before my son's birthday. Once I had some good information to work with, I felt comfortable enough to choose several dog training books that were appropriate both for my son's age and for the dog's breed. I also decided to buy a couple of the trainer's aids recommended in the manuals, including a special leash and collar.
As I said before, it's been a few weeks since we brought the puppy home. I'm proud to say that my son has been holding up his end of the bargain admirably and is really making progress thanks to the tips and advice in the dog training books. We're sure that he'll continue to do exceptionally well in teaching his pet basic commands and more, and we're looking forward to watching this new friendship blossom!
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